Right outside Harmandir Sahib, better known as the Golden Temple, the holiest site for those practicing the Sikh faith around the world, are shops that have been around for at least half a century. Ramesh Kumar, also known as Raju, owns the restaurant Raj Punjabi Dhaba. Originally a tea stall, his father founded it along his brothers after shifting to Amritsar from Pakistan in 1947. Now Raju hopes to pass it onto his son. Here, in a conversation with me, Mehar, Raju shares the story of his restaurant and how Amritsar has changed over the decades.